LESOTHO

http://www.malealea.co.ls/
http://www.malealea.com
ABOUT LESOTHO
This piece was written by Caroline James. Caroline had a tragic snow skiing accident in the French Alps in April 1998 and passed away. We all miss her cheerful presence and wonderful sense of humour.
We live in a world of constant change, where development holds the key to the future. A frightening depletion of isolated wilderness and other rural areas, bear the testament to this progressive trend. There are still however, places where the passage of time moves in a slow more measured way, and life continues in a similar vein, regardless of events elsewhere.
Since my first visit to the mountain kingdom of Lesotho five years ago, there have been noticeably few changes, even within the towns. In the villages a few new houses have sprung up amongst the traditional rondavels, but these apart, things remain the same. Development is minimal, there is too little money available for these projects. There are still aid programmes active within Lesotho. Many of these involve improving farming methods and teaching farmers about modern techniques, thus increasing production and output.
An independent country, the mountain kingdom of Lesotho has the unusual distinction of being completely surrounded by another - South Africa. It is a place of infinite beauty and rare contrasts, of towering mountains and lofty peaks, meandering rivers and mighty waterfalls, rolling valleys and shadowy ravines. Each season is well defined, and cloaked in its own colours; wavering plains of pink Cosmos, bright red summer aloes, delicate spring peach blossoms, and winter white snow capped peaks. The country is home to the Basotho people a tough resilient tribe who are, for the most part, subsistence farmers. They graze their herds on the steep terrain and high passes, whilst planting their mealies on terraces cut out on the mountainside. It is a country whose lowest point of 1500 metres above sea level, is the highest in the world.
The history of Lesotho goes back millions of years, and yet the nation itself is very young. Before the Basotho arrived, Bushmen inhabited the country. Their many rock paintings have enabled subsequent visitors to understand and visualise their way of life.
In the early 1800’s, peaceable communities of cattle owning people who spoke dialects of Sesotho were scattered across the Transvaal highlands. During the 1820s, however, these chiefdoms were disrupted by widespread Difaqane disturbances.
Between 1815-1829 Moshoeshoe the Great, possessing the intelligence and sensitivity to unite the fugitives of these wars, gathered the remnants of the tribes dispersed by Zulu and Matebele Raids, and created Basutoland withing the natural refuge created by the Maluti Mountain ranges in the west, and the Drakensberg in the east.
It was only in 1966, after a century of hostilities with its neighbours, that Basutoland gained independence from the British authority and became the Kingdom of Lesotho, ruled by King Moshoeshoe II - the third great grandson of Moshoeshoe the Great.
The mountainous topography of this country dictated that the horse become the universal form of transport. This led to the breeding of the traditional Basotho Pony that is descended from Javanese horses imported for their strength, sure footedness and calm temperament. They are called ponies because, as a result of their harsh environment, they grow no larger than a European riding pony.
Outside the major urban areas, electricity and telephones do not exist, and wild open spaces are paramount. Coming from Europe, where vast numbers of vehicles and people are cramped into increasingly small areas, and communication is taken completely for granted, this isolation has enormous appeal.

NORTHERN LESOTHO ROUTE
There are two options for visitors driving around Northern Lesotho. The first option is to drive to Lesotho entering at Van Rooyens Gate past the "Gates of Paradise Pass" at Malealea. An alternative and scenic route is the route from Malealea from Mafeteng.
MALEALEA to MAFETENG
Drive back to Mafeteng, turn left at the first junction and continue for a few kilometres on the tar. Take the turning to the left onto a gravel road. This road continues past Thaba Tsoeu and comes out at Matelile (Seeiso). Turn right and continue a few kilometres to the Malealea sign. Turn left and drive over the Gates of Paradise Pass. It is 7kms to Malealea.
Spend 1 or 2 days at Malealea participating in one of our activities:
* A 4x4 adventure trip to Jobo or short 4x4 trips to nearby villages
* Day pony treks or hiking trails to nearby waterfalls, Bushman paintings or to the Pitseng Canyon
* 1-6 day overnight pony treks to Ribaneng, Ketane, Semonkong Waterfalls.
MALEALEA to SEMONKONG
This 4-hour, 150 km route is over magnificent mountain passes. Take the road to the Botsoela Waterfall via the Sebelekoae Mission and the Raleqheka mission, taking all the right turns until you get to the tar road. Turn right and continue to Semonkong. At the weir near Semonkong turn right to view the Maletsunyane 192 m single drop waterfall.
SEMONKONG to ROMA
This is a 3 hour drive
ROMA to THABA BOSIU
This is a 10-minute drive. Visit Thaba Bosiu, where King Moshoeshoe 1 founded the Basotho Nation. There are guides at the Lesotho Tourist Board Information Centre who will take you up the mountain and explain the history of the Basotho Nation. Enjoy a pool lunch at the Lesotho Sun before continuing to Oxbow Lodge.
THABA BOSIU to OXBOW
Near Teyateyaneng, on the right hand side, there is a turn-off to the Helang Basali Mohair Weaving & Tapestry Centre.
The Leribe Craft Centre is on the left hand side as you enter Leribe. Handicapped Basotho people sell wool & mohair jerseys and other curios. Continue up the Moteng Pass to Oxbow Lodge at 2840m altitude.
You can also turn right at Leribe to go to Katse Dam.
OXBOW to KATSE
From Oxbow, turn right at the Kao Mines signpost. The turn off to Lejone is 60kms ahead and it takes 6 hours to get there.
Katse Lodge gives preference to the construction workers. Make sure you have accommodation booked and confirm 24 hrs ahead
KATSE to SANI TOP
This route goes via Sheshote to Malingoaneng to Tlokoeng. The distance is 75km and takes 8 hours. It is at least another hour from Tlokoeng to Sani Pass.
OXBOW TO SANI PASS
This is a 3-hour drive.
KATSE to SANI PASS via Thaba Tseka
This is about a 5-hour drive.
SANI PASS via Thaba Tseka to MALEALEA
This is a 7 to 8 hour drive.
SANI TOP to MARAKABEI via Thaba Tseka
This is about a 4-hour drive. Morija Museum is worth stopping in for a visit.

SOUTHERN LESOTHO ROUTE
This is a trans Lesotho tour from Malealea to the Sani Pass. These are quieter roads. Very few tourists use this route. View spectacular sandstone passes along the Orange River valley. This route is completely different to the Central & Northern routes of Lesotho.
This tour is normally 8 days long but can be shortened to a 4 days.
*Day 1 Arrive at Malealea
*Day 2 Spend the day exploring the Malealea "Gates of Paradise Pass" area either by 4x4, pony treks or hiking.
*Day 3 Malealea, Mpharane, Mohaleshoek - Seaka Bridge. Just before Seaka Bridge, turn left and drive along a track for 92km to the village of Nohana. Chief Nohana lives on the left hand side. He will welcome you to his beautiful village.
Camping. Beautiful sandstone cliffs and gorges. Trout fishing in the nearby Ketane river.
*Day 4 You have to back track to the Senqu River, but the views back are spectacular and unspoilt. The historical cave house of Rev Ellenberger & his family is at the Masitise Primary School just before Quthing. He established the Paris Evangelical mission in 1835. Here you can view a dinosaur footprint embedded in the roof of the cave and the local priest will tell you about the history of the families. Just past the turnoff to Mt. Moorosi from Quthing there are more dinosaur footprints embedded in the rock. There is a Danish-government sponsored complex at the sight alongside the road a few hundred metres from the turn off. Drive past Mt Moorosi and up the nearby mountain away from the main town. Introduce yourself to the chief or head man and find a compsite. There is a spectacular view overlooking the Orange or Senqu River. This is the Mt. Moorosi Mountain, well known for the gun war of Chief Moorosi and the Cape Mounted Rifles. Old bullets are still found on the mountain & Paul Kruger’s inscription is inside one of the caves.
*Day 5 You have two options that you can take.
The first option is to continue on the tar road to the Seforong Gorge, one of the most spectacular sights, where two rivers meet in two canyons. At the Ha Reeng School sign turn left into the first village and ask for Paulus Thelang. This is difficult 4x4 track to traverse, but it is very exciting trying to get to one of the most beautiful sites in Lesotho. Take a hike down to the confluence of the Orange River.
The second option is to drive through the Mokoaes Valley, turn off to Letsies lake, backtrack and continue to Mphaki and onto Seforong. You will need an extra day to do this and the variations of the trip are endless.
*Day 6 Continue to Sehalabathebe National park where you can stay overnight at a basic lodge.
*Day 7 Drive over the Matebeng Pass and camp en-route. On my previous trip in April, 98, the original road had washed away and we were diverted to drive along a river bed for someway. There is a perfect camping spot amongst poplar trees
*Day 8 Continue via Sehonghong to Sani Pass.